How to Plant and Grow a Moss Lawn | A Step-by-Step Guide

Moss lawns are a great alternative to traditional grass lawns and you are probably considering growing your own. Imagine entering your garden and feeling a lush velvety touch of moss under your feet. This article will explain how you can plant and grow a moss garden.

Planting is one stage of the job. The complete moss lawn guide covers cost, timelines and whether your site suits moss at all, and moss lawn care picks up after planting.

1. Choosing the Right Moss

Before you plant a moss yard, you must understand the difference between Acrocarpous and Pleurocarpous mosses, the most used mosses for gardening, and some considerations before selecting the mosses you want to use.

1.1 Acrocarpous moss vs. Pleurocarpous moss

Mosses can be divided into two main categories. Namely; Acrocarps and Pleurocarps.

Acrocarps: These mosses grow upright and in clumps and are often used in plant beds and as decoration. They are a bit more drought-tolerant than Pleurocarpous mosses. Examples are Haircap moss (Polytrichum commune) and Pincushion moss (Leucobryum Glaucum).

Pleurocarps: These kinds of mosses grow outwards and have a carpet-like look. Pleurocarpous species can be used as an alternative to grass and are suitable to cover large areas. Examples are Sheet moss (Hypnum imponens) or Carpet moss (Hypnum cupressiforme).

1.2 Popular Moss Varieties

The 10 most popular mosses are covered in this article and below is a summary the moss species that are most used for gardening.

1. Sheet Moss: Scientifically known as ‘Hypnum imponens and the most popular choice for moss lawns and is a great alternative to grass. It can handle moderate foot traffic and prefers full to moderate shade. It has curved, concave leaves that grow into loose, sprawling ‘sheets’.
2. Carpet Moss: This moss is very similar to Sheet moss because it is also of the genus Hypnum and described by science as ‘Hypnum cupressiforme‘. It is also used as a grass alternative for moss gardens, has straight to slightly curved leaves, and grows in dense interwoven ‘carpets’.
3. Sun Moss (Bryum): This variety is known as ‘Bryum caespiticium‘ and is often used for sunny areas of a moss yard.
4. Tree Apron Moss: As the name suggests, this moss grows on trees and drapes around them so it looks like a tree is wearing an apron. It is by science described as ‘Anomodon attenuatus‘.
5. Fern Moss: The scientific name of this moss is ‘Thuidium delicatulum‘ and looks like a miniature fern ‘forest’. It is a delicate moss and grows well around ponds and streams.
6. Mood Moss: This is a moss characterized by its feathery texture and grows well on rocks and wooden surfaces. The scientific name of this moss is ‘Dicranum scoparium‘.
7. Cushion Moss: Also sold as pincushion moss and pillow moss, and known to science as ‘Leucobryum glaucum‘. It grows in clumps that resemble a pincushion and is the most popular acrocarpous moss for lawns.
8. Hedwigia moss (not one we supply): This pleurocarpous species is described by science as ‘Hedwigia ciliata‘ and can be light green to silvery green (depending on the moisture levels). It prefers partial or dappled shade and is mainly used in lawns for decorative purposes.
9. Haircap Moss: This one has the scientific name ‘Polytrichum commune‘ and has tall upright shoots, lance-shaped densely packed leaves, and grows in mats.
10. Sphagnum Moss: This is the living version of ‘Peat moss’ and can hold up to 20 times its body weight in water. It is also known as ‘Sphagnum spp.‘ and is mainly used for practical horticultural applications.

1.3 Considerations for Selecting Moss Species

Before you start growing your moss lawn, you should consider moss species that are native to your reason or a similar climate. If you are not sure about this, feel free to ask us.

Moss tolerates a far wider pH range than most people expect, so there is no need to chase a number. Mildly acidic ground does help, but mainly because it holds back the grass and weeds competing with the moss. If your ground is strongly alkaline, sulfur will bring the pH down, but for most sites this is not a step worth taking.

Some species are relatively sun tolerant (e.g. Bryum moss) but most mosses prefer moderate or full shade. It is possible to combine different moss species but if they like the same conditions, they might outcompete each other. Make sure to choose mosses that complement each other. For example, use only one Pleurocarpous moss as a grass replacement and a couple of Acrocarpous mosses for decoration.

Make sure that the area is moist but well-drained. A moss yard doesn’t need much water once it is established, but until then, you should ensure enough (clean) water is available. Filtered tap water or rainwater is preferred because the chemicals in unfiltered tap water can harm the moss.

2. Preparing the Site

Once you have chosen the right moss, it’s time to prepare the area. Before you start preparing the site, check if the conditions are good for moss to thrive.

2.1 Ideal Conditions for Moss Growth

Most moss species need shade or partial shade to thrive. Full sun will dry them out, and they’ll quickly go dormant. Observe the garden throughout the day and sketch the sun hours each section has.

The availability of moisture is also crucial. Especially during the establishment phase if you decide to transplant moss. But be aware of overwatering or stagnant water because you can also drown the moss. Make sure that the area is well-drained. If necessary, move some of the soil to the middle so you don’t have any standing water.

Moss wants well-drained ground, and it tolerates a far wider pH range than most people expect. Acidic ground helps mainly by suppressing the grass and weeds that compete with moss, rather than by feeding the moss itself, so there is no need to chase a specific number. Rake the top layer instead, so the moss has enough texture to grip.

2.2 Site Preparation

Now the exciting part starts. Begin preparing the area you want to turn into a moss lawn by clearing away grasses, weeds, and other plants. Try to remove as much as you can from the roots of other plants so they don’t grow back after you have planted the moss. Especially grasses or weeds that compete for the same nutrients and space as the moss.

Remove as much debris as possible, such as rocks, sticks, or leaves, before leveling out the soil. If possible, move some extra soil to the middle of the area so it is a bit higher than the edges to prevent standing water during heavy rain. Ensure that the area is well-drained.

If the ground is strongly alkaline, sulfur will lower the pH. Raising it is rarely worth doing for moss.

Once plants and debris are removed and the area is leveled, you can start preparing the soil. Moss plants prefer compacted soil and this can be achieved by walking repeatedly over the area or by using a tamper to create a firm foundation for the moss to attach.

After the soil is compacted, you want to use a rake to scratch the top layer lightly. This will help the moss to attach its rhizoids to the surface.

3. Planting the Moss in Your Lawn

Now the mosses are chosen and the area is prepared, you can begin planting the moss. This can be reached with several methods which are explained below.

3.1 Method 1: Moving Moss You Already Have

The cheapest method is lifting moss that is already growing on your own ground and relaying it where you want the lawn. Do not take moss from anywhere else. It is illegal on public land in most states and theft from private land without the owner’s written permission, and a stripped colony takes years to recover. Wild moss also arrives with weed seed and insects, and the species you find is rarely the one your site needs.

You can follow the next steps:

Step 1: Go into a forest and identify a couple of healthy moss patches from the same species (preferably a Hypnum moss).

Step 2: Use a flat spade to lift patches of up to a square foot, leaving a thin layer of soil attached. Do not take it all from one spot. This can harm the habitat and it is also better to get mosses with different genetic diversity to promote a healthier, more resilient growth in your moss garden.

Step 3: Use mesh netting, pins, or an adhesive to keep the moss in place. If you use an adhesive, you should apply it before you plant the moss.

Step 4: Place the moss patches on the soil. Push them down gently to remove air pockets and spray them with filtered water or rainwater.

Step 5: Water the moss early every morning until the moss is well-established. Avoid walking on the moss during this period and don’t let dogs or kids play on it.

Step 6: You can use the moss lawn after 6-12 weeks (depending on the conditions) in a similar way as a grass lawn. Keep an eye out for color changes, make sure it has enough shade, and take care of it.

3.2 Method 2: Buying Live Moss Clumps

Live moss is sold two ways and both work for a lawn. Cut sheets come with a thin layer of soil and press straight onto prepared ground. Moss mats are soil-free on a geotextile backing, which makes them easy to cut to shape and lay on hard or uneven surfaces. Ask any supplier where their moss comes from; ours is responsibly sourced from managed private sites with the landowner’s permission, or rescued ahead of scheduled land clearing.

Here is how you can use living moss clumps for planting a moss lawn:

Step 1: Choose one of the Hypnum mosses: Sheet moss, Carpet moss, or Lawn moss (a hybrid between these two). Do not use three different hypnum species for the same area because they will outcompete each other.

Step 2: Place the order and buy the live moss.

Step 3: Take the moss clumps out of the package when it arrives. If you don’t plant it instantly, then you should lay it out in a cool and humid place without direct sunlight. Keep it moist (with clean water) but not soaked.

Step 4: Wet the moss one last time before planting it. Dip it in a bucket of clean filtered water (or rainwater) and give it a shake afterward so it is not soaked.

Step 5: A moss adhesive can be used so the moss attaches itself quickly to the surface. Spread it out lightly over the area and follow the instructions.

Step 6: Begin with the biggest clumps and place them close together but don’t press them together. Fill the holes with smaller clumps. Press it down lightly with your hand and attach it to the soil with a net or a pin.

Step 7: Fence off the area so the moss has time to establish itself. This can take somewhere between 6-12 weeks and highly depends on the availability of moisture, shade, soil conditions, and temperature.

Step 8: Water the moss daily in the first couple of months. Once it is well established, it won’t need much watering anymore except for very hot summer days.

Step 8: You can walk on the moss after it has attached itself to the soil. But be careful with playing with children or pets until all the gaps in the moss lawn are closed.

3.3 Method 3: Applying a Moss Slurry

If you are on a budget, you may want to use a moss slurry/milkshake to plant a moss lawn. You can either buy ready-to-go moss milkshakes or prepare them yourself with the following steps.

Step 1: Use a shade cloth to protect the prepared area from direct sunlight until the moss reaches maturity.

Step 2: Buy the moss, or lift it from your own ground as described in the previous methods.

Step 3: Blend 2 units of moss with 1 unit of buttermilk or yogurt until you get a milkshake/smoothie-like consistency.

Step 4: Spread the slurry out your lawn area where you want the moss to grow. Use a pain brush to spread it out evenly.

Step 5: Use a misting device to keep the slurry moist. Make sure that you use chemical-free water (rainwater or filtered tap water). Do this daily or even twice a day if that is possible.

Step 6: Do not walk on it until the moss reaches maturity. You can fence it off if you want to make sure that the fragile moss plants won’t be damaged.

Step 7: Monitor the area and be careful with overwatering because this can flush the slurry away.

4. After Planting

For the first three months water is the whole job: mist rather than soak, let the surface dry between waterings, and keep the pressure low enough that nothing shifts. After that a moss lawn needs no mowing, no feeding and no irrigation in normal weather, and gentle foot traffic actually helps by keeping the moss in contact with the ground.

Full care and maintenance guide

5. If Something Goes Wrong

Three things account for almost every failure: too much sun for the species, water standing rather than draining, or moss that never made firm contact with the ground. Drying out is usually protective dormancy rather than death, so judge it after rehydrating rather than by how it looks dry.

Diagnosing and fixing common moss problems · why moss turns black

6. Conclusion

Planting and growing your moss lawn can be a rewarding experience. As explained in this article, you should start with choosing the right moss before you can begin preparing the area. You can buy live moss, lift moss you already have, or use a moss milkshake to establish it in your yard. A moss garden may need some extra work at first but the care and maintenance will be low.

Feel free to reach out to us if you have any questions about growing your moss garden!

Frequently Asked Questions

Pending review by Olivia Milner, practitioner-scientist with a background in sustainability and education.